Alcohol Culture in Morocco

I know a bunch of friends from back home wanted me to talk about this in my blog, so this one’s for you.

Contrary to popular belief, alcohol is very much legal here in Morocco. The major difference, however, is that consumption is very covert. If you want to buy alcohol here, you have to know where to buy it. Most Moroccans either a: won’t know where to go or b: will know but won’t tell you. If one does manage to find a liquor store, there will be a large counter and all the major types of alcohol behind it (gin, vodka, whiskey, wine etc.). You have to tell the clerk what you want and he’ll bring it for you. The cost of alcohol is about on par with what you would pay in North America, making it grossly more expensive relative to the price of other things here. After purchasing, the clerk will wrap the bottles/cans in newspaper and will put it in a black bag. One is also expected to have a bag to put the alcohol in, as carrying alcohol is taboo.

Bars and clubs here are a bit different. There are two major categories of these. The first is ‘Old Man Bars’ which are, as the name implies, for older dudes to hang out and drink beer excessively. They are always closed such that people can’t see who is in them from outside, and are usually pretty seedy. Furthermore the ratio of breathable air to cigarette/hash smoke is unfavorable to anyone who likes oxygen. The only redeeming quality is they always show the football games.

Second is the higher class bars/clubs. These places are usually more expensive, but have wicked music, often with a live band. They are also often decorated in a non-Moroccan style, ie Irish pubs or African clubs, and are sometimes in hotels. They are usually really nice but expensive and busy, especially on weekends. Furthermore, unlike North American clubs, they are more like lounges which try to be dance clubs. Subsequently, people dance awkwardly around and often on top of tables and chairs. There is usually no real dancefloor, but people make it work.

Like the old man bars, they are always closed from the outside, but have a much more favourable breathable air to smoke ratio. These places are great for dancing and jamming to the music…. However still haven’t found a good throwback/tumble equivalent.

What makes Morocco’s complex relationship with alcohol even more interesting is that Morocco is a major producer of wine. It produces over 35 million bottles a year, as well, the state owns a large number of vineyards across the country and directly benefits from the taxes on alcohol. This makes the issue much more thorny.

There are movements to ban alcohol sales entirely for Moroccans. The mayor of Fes attempted to ban it recently, however it was rejected because of the amount of money the state gets from alcohol taxes. There are still very clear conservative elements within the country, however it seems that there is a huge double standard; where it is okay to produce and sell alcohol to others as long as Moroccans do not partake.

In terms of how many Moroccans drink, because of the covert nature of drinking, the statistics do not exist officially. The most common number I’ve heard is about 2/5 Moroccans drink overall, but that number is much higher among youths and the wealthy. It seems, based on what I’ve seen, that the number of university aged students who do drink is similar to the number who drink in Canada, between two thirds and three quarters.

Finally, whether they drink or don’t drink, most Moroccans love to dance and have a wicked time! Such an unreal spirit here!